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| Weekend in Acapulco |
The world famous and legendary Pearl of the Pacific is one of the most visited tourist destinations in Mexico. In spite of living to the rhythm of modern life and having large hotels and first class services, Acapulco still maintains its beauty and original attractions, as well as the tropical and exotic flavor first seen in the 1950’s when the port became famous.
FRIDAY
7 p.m.- I had a tape with songs by Agustín Ramírez which are very appropriate to travel “the roads of the south”, thinking, for example, about the contrast of traditional music (strumming guitars and choirs) and modern times evidenced in the new “highway of the sun”, which allows one to reach Acapulco from Mexico City in about three-and-a-half hours. There was still daylight when I arrived and was set to eat seafood soup and mojarra at the AMIGO MIGUEL downtown past the breakwater.
8:30 p.m.- After dinner I went out to stretch my legs in the old part of the port. I went down Azueta street until I reached PLAYA TLACOPANOCHA, where some kids were still swimming. A statue of Juan R. Escudero, where the COSTERA begins, exemplified the efficacy of bronze in preserving history. The port terminal, undergoing repairs to receive cruise ships next season, is on the left.
9:30- Azueta street turns into LA QUEBRADA, which I climbed until I got to HOTEL EL MIRADOR, whose first twelve cabins built in 1933 received the tourists that had started to arrive on the highway constructed a few years earlier. Although it has been renovated, the hotel still has the charm of Mediterranean architecture that molds in to the cliffs, and is an ideal place to see the daily diving ceremony, which has become one of Acapulco’s main attractions.
10 p.m.- Going down the stone staircase one arrives in BAR LA PERLA, which has a wall at the entrance covered with autographs of celebrities from yesterday and today. There I drank a refreshing piña colada and saw the 10:30 show, in which divers plunge into the sea while holding torches: the tension grows as the diver climbs the rocks, pauses respectfully before an altar of the Virgin of Guadalupe, and the torches are lit. Now the diver concentrates, studies the currents, and mentally traces the trajectory he has followed countless times, which will plunge him into a depth of barely four meters below the surface. Most of us held our breath while the endless four seconds elapsed and finally ended with the roar of the crowd.
11:30.- As an adventurous reporter, I sought to take the pulse of Acapulco and headed for PLAYA CONDESA (close to the bungee jump), where the DISCO BEACH is ready to admit its faithful clients. A couple of meters below the music filled the atmosphere and people danced and shook their heads while they listened to Shakira sing in English. Suddenly the discotheque – which was supposedly already full – became flooded with waterfalls of foam flying everywhere refreshing the many dancers until they were totally soaked.
SATURDAY
9:30 a.m.- After a light breakfast at the hotel, I took a taxi to go visit the new museum and the PALMA SOLA archeological site, which despite being over 2,500 years old (according to archeologists) is still not considered as a “tourist attraction” in Acapulco. In fact, the taxi driver confidently climbed the hill, but then had to start asking around. When we reached the limits of the urban zone, we found a lovely building on an esplanade which turned out to be the entrance of the museum, which will be inaugurated in June. Since the museum was open and we were so far away, I asked the cabdriver to wait and gave him 100 pesos.
This place has 18 petroglyphs or carvings in huge rocks distributed along a pathway that goes up the hill. One of the most outstanding carvings was number 10, which has a circle with four painted pyramids. Another noteworthy example is the last one in a cave which clearly shows a human couple and possibly a child alluding perhaps to the first settlement in the area. When the site is inaugurated it might offer a visit to a small waterfall; in the meantime, it offers us a lovely view of the city and the bay.
12:00 p.m.- Fortunately, I was already heading for the beach when the sun began to hit. Out of nowhere came a waiter who easily convinced me to order pescadillas and a michelada (tequila and beer), which quenched my thirst while I watched the crabs running around in the FARALLÓN DEL MORRO. Further on a dark little girl was making “Afro”-style braids on a blond girl of about the same age. I got in the water and let myself be caressed by the waves.
4:30 p.m.- I felt a bit hungry, put on my shirt, and took the Costera until I reached the FIESTA AMERICANA. Right in front of it is a place called JOVITO’S where they serve delicious seafood tacos with very tasty salsas.
6:00 p.m.- I went back to the hotel and after taking a shower I fell asleep for about 20 reenergizing minutes. I took another shower and went out to a street called Camino de la Pinzona, which turns into La Inalámbrica. On number 6 is the CASA DE DOLORES OLMEDO whose façade has the last mural painting made by Diego Rivera, a mosaic representing Quetzalcóatl and Tláloc. It was summer and the sky was turning red. I went back to La Quebrada, paid my ticket for the 7 p.m. dive which included a cold beer, and went down to a place next to the rocks where I would not see the diver’s plunge, but would instead see the sun set in the horizon.
8:00 p.m.- I headed back to the “Zona Dorada” (Golden Zone). I got my bearings from last night’s disco and started walking several blocks looking at people in shorts and all sorts of shops selling beach clothes, sports equipment, mini-supermarkets, more clothes, and everything that protects people from the sun: water, sunglasses, sun blocks, suntan lotions, umbrellas, and more. I went in CAFÉ ESTEBAN which has a fashionable boutique, a gallery with paintings from Arnold Belkin, Leonora Carrington, and a real estate office.
10 p.m.- Right in front of PARQUE ACUATICO CICI (famous for its pool with artificial waves) is the HARD ROCK CAFÉ, which aside from having a great atmosphere and good music belongs to the global chain of rock’ n rollers that started in London when Eric Clapton donated one of his guitars. The franchise in Acapulco exhibits items from the Beetles, Jimi Hendrix, Bono, and many others, as well as countless photographs, golden records, and some guitars. After dinner, at 11 p.m., I heard a live group called Plasma.
SUNDAY
9:30 a.m.- I went around the ZÓCALO looking for another great place to have breakfast and decided on the classical FLOR DE ACAPULCO, which is on a terrace where you can see the hustle and bustle of people on Sundays.
10:30 a.m.- It is quite easy to realize that the oldest construction in Acapulco is the FUERTE DE SAN DIEGO. On a visit you can find out interesting things like the fact that the present fort replaced an older one which was destroyed by an earthquake in 1776. The fort has the MUSEO HISTÓRICO DE ACAPULCO, which tells us about the port’s life from remote times; the museum has two large exhibition rooms where the old fort’s kitchen and chapel were reconstructed. Here we can learn about the stories and legends of the time when the famous Naos (ships) from China, constantly attacked by pirates looking for treasures, sought a safe haven in this port.
12:30 p.m.- As I walked back to the hotel I bought tamarindos and cocadas (candy), and one of those horrible coconut monkeys, simply because they are the only true handicrafts of Acapulco (let’s see who I’ll give it to). At about 1:30 I decided to leave town.
2:30 p.m.- I knew it was still quite early to leave, but I had reservations to do some whitewater rafting on the Papagayo River, which has become a must ever since it started a couple of years ago. The base is located about 45 minutes from Acapulco. We got our helmets, oars, and lifejackets, and learned that rapids are classified into five levels of difficulty, one being the easiest and five the hardest. This river is classified as a two and only during the rainy season does it become a three; a guide would go down the river with us. Once we were in the water we had no choice but to paddle, bounce like a ball, breathe deeply, get wet, and have a great time until we found out the trip was over.
México Desconocido
Source: México desconocido # 309 / November 2002
Copyright 2002 Derechos Reservados México Desconocido
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